Southern Pantanal: Beyond the Jaguar
Having enjoyed a fantastic trip to the Northern Pantanal a few years ago, where 18 Jaguar sightings were among the highlights of our stay. We decided it was time to explore a very different side of this vast wetland. Our destination was the remote Southern Pantanal, where the wildlife is every bit as rewarding. But where the experience is centred as much on the region’s ranching culture as its famous predators.
Norfolk to Brazil
Our journey from Norfolk to Brazil got off to a less-than-perfect start when delays with baggage handling at São Paulo. Caused us to miss our connecting flight to Campo Grande. An unexpected overnight stay followed before we could finally continue our journey into the Pantanal the next morning.
A six-hour drive in a Toyota 4×4 took us deep into the Southern Pantanal and to our first destination, Baía das Pedras Ranch. The journey itself felt like a wildlife safari, with birds and animals appearing almost from the moment we left the main road. A magnificent King Vulture drinking beside a roadside pool was an early highlight, but the day became even more memorable when our vehicle became firmly stuck in deep sand.
With little chance of passing traffic in such a remote area, the situation looked rather challenging. Fortunately, another group travelling to the same ranch came along shortly afterwards and helped tow us free. From then on, we continued the journey together, eventually arriving at Baía das Pedras in time for lunch and our first taste of life in the Southern Pantanal.
Baía das Pedras
For the next few days we explored the ranch with Manoela from Pantanal Wings, whose local knowledge and enthusiasm made a huge difference to our experience. Travelling through woodland, open grasslands and extensive floodplains, we quickly built up an impressive list of sightings. Burrowing Owls, macaws, coatis, Crab-eating Foxes, Six-banded Armadillos and countless wetland birds all provided excellent photographic opportunities.
Despite our best efforts, two of the area’s most sought-after mammals remained elusive. Giant Anteaters and Tapirs somehow managed to avoid us. Although another group staying at the ranch seemed to have all the luck, finding six Giant Anteaters during one outing!
One of the most enjoyable aspects of our stay was experiencing life on a working Pantanal ranch. Watching local cowboys move cattle across the landscape on horseback, accompanied by their dogs, offered a fascinating insight into a way of life that has changed little over generations.
After four nights at Baía das Pedras, we set off for our second ranch on the banks of the Rio Negro. The five-hour journey took us through more spectacular scenery, with stops to photograph nesting macaws and a Red-legged Tortoise crossing the track. As we travelled from ranch to ranch, opening and closing gates along the way, it was impossible not to admire the resilience and pioneering spirit of the people who live and work in this remote part of Brazil.
On to the Rio Negro
Our next destination would offer a completely different experience. Centred on the wildlife-rich waters of the Rio Negro and, with a little luck, the possibility of encountering the region’s two top predators – the Jaguar and Puma.