Return to South Luangwa

It was a long-awaited return to South Luangwa — our last visit was 27 years ago. This time, it was a dedicated photographic trip. A lot has changed in that time: from 36-exposure rolls of film to the world of digital cameras, sharper lenses, and, hopefully, a bit more experience behind them too!

We joined a group of six photographers sharing a vehicle, flying from Heathrow via Dubai to Mfuwe Airport — which, remarkably, has changed very little in nearly three decades. The familiar warm air, the smell of dust and rain, and the easy smiles of the people instantly reminded us why Zambia is so special.

Flatdogs Camp

Our base for the week was Flatdogs Camp, just five minutes from the main park gate across the Luangwa River.

Flatdogs is a relaxed and friendly camp, perfectly placed for easy access to the park. The camp has a mix of safari tents, chalets, and an open dining area by the river. It offers a genuine “bush comfort” experience. Elephants and hippos often wander close by, and evenings are filled with the sounds of the wild. Hyenas call in the distance, hippos grunt nearby, and sometimes a lion’s roar drifts across the water. The staff made everyone feel instantly at home. The food was excellent, the drinks cold, and the warm hospitality was just what we needed after a long journey.

Early Start

Our first full morning in the park started early, with a light breakfast at 5:30 a.m. before heading out as the sun rose over the Luangwa River. The plan was to look for the local leopard, Lucy, and her two cubs — well-known in the area for their regular appearances.

At the park gate, we heard that Lucy had been seen the previous evening near the bridge with her cubs, but no one knew where she’d moved to overnight. Excitement levels were high as we crossed the bridge and made our way towards Mbangula — Lucy’s usual territory.

Legend in South Luangwa

Lucy is something of a legend in South Luangwa. A mature, confident leopard, completely relaxed around vehicles, she often provides exceptional photographic opportunities. With that in mind, we turned off the main road and began exploring the smaller tracks that weave through her patch, pausing occasionally to listen for alarm calls that might reveal her location.

Our first sighting of the day was a Thornicroft’s giraffe posing perfectly in the shade. Nearby, an African Fish Eagle perched on a branch — a classic Luangwa scene and a great photo opportunity in the soft morning light. We later stopped for tea on the banks of the river, enjoying the stillness before continuing our search.

Although Lucy stayed out of sight, there was still plenty to photograph. A male puku put on a short mating display. Colourful bee-eaters flitted from perch to perch. An elephant tugged at branches in a nearby clearing. On the way back to camp, a bull elephant blocked the track — a gentle reminder that in the bush, nature always has the right of way.

We returned to camp for brunch, some shade, and a few cold drinks before getting ready for our afternoon drive.

Afternoon Drive

In the afternoon, we headed back into the park early, hoping to find something before anyone else did. After crossing the bridge, we turned right and drove through the beautiful woodland between Mfuwe Lodge and Wafwa Lagoon. A group of elephants cooling off provided some lovely photo moments, and a colourful spider discovered on the back seat of the vehicle gave us a chance to try some impromptu macro photography!

No leopards this time, but there was still plenty to enjoy. We had good views of marabou and saddle-billed storks. A mother warthog trotted by with her young. We ended the day with our first sundowners on the banks of the Luangwa River. It was one of those perfect safari moments as the sun dipped low and the sounds of the night began to build.

As dusk fell, we began our night drive back to camp, spotting some of the nocturnal residents that make the park come alive after dark — an elephant shrew, a genet, scrub hares, and the glinting eyes of hippos and crocodiles along the riverbank.

A wonderful start to the week — full of sightings, good light, and the unmistakable magic that makes South Luangwa one of our favourite safari destinations