Kaziranga National Park

As part of our journey down the Brahmaputra aboard the ABN Sukapha, we made a much-anticipated stop to explore Kaziranga National Park – one of India’s most celebrated wildlife sanctuaries and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known for its successful conservation of the One-Horned Rhinoceros, we had high hopes of photographing some of the park’s iconic species.

Our visit spanned three days, and we explored three different gates into the park: Kohora , Bagori and Ghorakati . Each gate provides access to distinct safari zones with slightly different habitats and wildlife viewing opportunities. Reaching the park from the river unfortunately took between 60 and 90 minutes, but did offer a scenic journey through rural Assam.

Kaziranga boasts some of the richest biodiversity in the subcontinent, and its efforts in rhino conservation are rightly praised. However, for anyone interested in photographing the wildlife , we found our visit a little underwhelming — not due to a lack of wildlife, but due to the conditions under which we were able to experience it.

Unlike some of the better-regulated parks in central or southern India, Kaziranga has no apparent cap on the number of jeeps allowed in at a time. Our visit happened to fall on a busy weekend and during the Eid holiday, which meant the park was extremely crowded. The sheer number of vehicles meant that much of the wildlife had retreated away from the main tracks, and when we did spot animals, they were often quite distant — not ideal for photography.

Wildlife in the Park

That said, we did manage to encounter herds of elephants, including some adorable calves, and had several sightings of the Greater One-Horned Rhino grazing in the open. We also saw Asian water buffalo cooling off in the marshes. Birdlife was varied and gave us some highlights, especially sightings of Chestnut-Headed Bee-Eaters, Great Hornbills, Slender-billed Vulture, and a number of raptor species soaring overhead. Light conditions were far from ideal – dry but overcast and hazy skies dominated much of our time there, resulting in flat, low-contrast images that didn’t do the vibrant landscape justice.

Everyone Hopes to see a tiger

Of course, everyone hopes to see a tiger, and there was quite a buzz when one was spotted lounging in a small waterbody. Unfortunately for us, it was at a considerable distance, barely visible even with long lenses. A frustrating moment for the group, especially after the early mornings and bumpy rides.

Asian-water Buffalo in Kaziranga National Park — **Asian-water Buffalo**

What stood out during our time in Kaziranga was the contrast between its reputation and reality. The park has done outstanding work in protecting its flagship species, especially the rhino. But the impact of high visitor numbers, especially unmanaged, is hard to ignore. Wildlife is easily disturbed, and that affects both the animals and the experience for those hoping for quiet observation.

Still, the landscapes of Kaziranga are stunning – a mix of tall elephant grass, wetlands, and open forest, with the snow-fed Brahmaputra forming a boundary to the park. With better crowd management, timed entries, and improved regulation, this park could offer a truly world-class experience for wildlife lovers and photographers alike.

Despite the challenges, we’re grateful to have visited. Every trip adds to our understanding of the places we photograph and the complex balance between conservation and tourism. Kaziranga is an essential stronghold for India’s wildlife — we just hope future visits will allow for a more tranquil connection with the remarkable animals that call it home.

A Glimpse of Remote River Life

Moving on from Kaziranga, our cruise continued further downstream. One particularly memorable stop was an early morning visit to a sandbank village, a temporary yet fully functioning settlement set up on one of the ever-shifting sandbars of the Brahmaputra. This remote community, complete with its own mosque, fields, and homes, had been established by people who had migrated from another region. It was a fascinating and humbling glimpse into the adaptability and resilience of life along the river .

Silk and Final Stops in Guwahati

Our final destination was the city of Guwahati, where we visited a local silk farm, weaving centre and Guwahati’s garbage dump. Here, we watched the process of silk production from cocoon to cloth and met the skilled artisans creating beautiful handwoven silk garments. It was a fitting end to our trip — a connection not only with Assam’s natural heritage but also with its deep cultural and craft traditions.